IF YOU KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT Japanese cuisine (one of the world’s favorites!), you’ll know that, sadly for those with celiac disease or gluten intolerance, much of it is off limits due to the presence of gluten in many common Japanese ingredients. Notable among them: soy sauce, most types of noodles, and sometimes even sushi rice. So, on a recent trip to the Land of the Rising Sun, I took it as a delicious challenge to spend a week finding amazing Japanese food free of or with minimal gluten. Here’s my guide to dining gluten-free (GF for those in the know) in Tokyo.

Otsuna Sushi, located in the buzzing district of Roppongi, delivers a wonderful omakase for those avoiding gluten. While not a dedicated gluten-free establishment, with advanced notice the chef can prepare an outstanding tasting menu. Nearly all of the nigiri are adapted with GF soy, and anything that can’t be is replaced. Even the classic chawanmushi steamed egg and dessert were provided. Not too far away in Roppongi, Gluten Free T’s Kitchen offers a whole range of adaptable and allergen-free Japanese food. More than one visit may be required to sample the amount of comforting favorites on offer, including their fantastic deep fried chicken and takoyaki.

Dreaming of jiggly, soft and fluffy soufflé pancakes? Situated in the achingly cool Jingumae district off Omotesando Street, Rizlabo Kitchen is here to deliver, ensuring you don’t miss out on this Instagram-required eating experience. The small kitchen is part of a shared restaurant space on the ground floor of a traditional Japanese house, and they also do crepes on certain weekdays – be sure to check their Insta for the latest. RICEHACK Gluten Free Bakery in the side streets of Cat Street, a small hole-in-the-wall operation, serves a range of delicious curry buns, sausage rolls, bread, baguettes and pizzas to-go (including vegetarian/vegan options); these make for excellent sustenance while touring Tokyo. And tucked away on a quiet lane off well-known Takeshita Street, My Bánh Mì by Gluten Free TOKYO offers a simple menu of sandwich options, also including vegetarian and vegan variations, with a small outdoor-dining terrace providing the perfect place for a light lunch. 

Another fantastically popular Japanese dish is okonomiyaki, a type of savory pancake containing cabbage and various meat or seafood cooked on a teppan grill. Steps away from Shinjuku train station, the lively Teppan Baby specializes in Hokkaido-style okonomiyaki, which is cooked with yakisoba noodles as opposed to the more commonly found flour batter. While not suitable for celiacs due to the likelihood of cross-contamination, those with mild gluten intolerances may enjoy this dish as they are able to swap the yakisoba for rice noodles (cooked in a separate standalone pot of water). 

The restaurant Sû (a.k.a Gluten Free Kushiage Su, for googling purposes) in Ginza delivers an exceptional tasting menu of Kushiage, also known as Kushikatsu: skewers of breaded and deep-fried meat and vegetables. This modern and intimate eight-person restaurant is hard to find on the second floor of an anonymous building, however, it is truly unmissable on your gluten-free tour of Tokyo. Multiple courses of intriguing flavor combinations to start lead to wonderfully tender and crunchy sticks prepared before you and served at the counter.

Finally, for those craving the ultimate bowl of hearty goodness, Soranoiro NIPPON is conveniently placed at Tokyo Main Station to energize the weary traveler. Once you’ve located the establishment along “Ramen Street,” you can order from a machine outside the restaurant and choose a bowl of gluten free salt ramen; a deep broth with brown rice noodles, soft chicken breast, and a fudgy-yolked soft boiled egg. Slurping is highly encouraged!

Lede and hero image courtesy of Sû.

ASIDE FROM A FEW PRESTIGIOUS annual international awards ceremonies, it’s not often you get a critical mass of the world’s best chefs together in the same room, but for Gallery by Chele, all the stars aligned in Manila for a festive weekend celebrating the evolution of the restaurant’s 10 year anniversary and many years of friendships made across the food industry.  

Gallery by Chele, which was just named one of the best restaurants in the Philippines in our T+L Tastemakers awards, is itself a celebration of Philippine ingredients that ties into modern times while also adapting to the head chef’s Spanish background. Since its inception, the restaurant has set out to prove that they could create a dining hotspot with true substance, and have traveled across the Philippines learning the traditional cooking methods of locals and documenting their findings. With knowledge and respect, chef-partner Chele Gonzalez and executive sous chef Carlos Villaflor strive to elevate Filipino cuisine, bringing a refined yet diverse approach to their menus.

The star-studded ‘Gallery by Chele: A Decade’ was an exclusive affair reminiscing on the restaurant’s most memorable dishes and showcasing first-of-their-kind collaborations with seven of the coolest chefs cooking in the world today. Flying in were international culinary talents Virgilio Martínez from the No. 1 restaurant on the World’s 50 Best 2023 list, Central in Peru; Andoni Aduriz of Mugaritz in San Sebastien, Spain, who recently was awarded the 2023 Icon award from World’s 50 Best in addition to ranking No. 31; Julien Royer from Michelin-three-starred Odette in Singapore who scored No.1 on Asia’s Best Restaurants in 2019 and 2020; and Spanish icon, Josean Alija from Nerua Guggenheim in Bilbao, a one-Michelin star establishment in the Guggenheim museum.

Together, they joined the heart and soul of the Philippine restaurant industry, with the likes of Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery, a progressive Filipino hotspot that is globally known for its modern take on traditional dishes who also recently received the Flor de Caña Sustainable Restaurant Award 2023 from World’s 50 for its honorable practices with the local community. Also present: icon Margarita Forés (Cibo di Marghi/Grace Park/Lusso), commonly recognized for introducing Italian cuisine to the Philippines while eventually integrating it with local cuisine, who was in 2016 named Asia’s Best Female chef and has been knighted by the Italian government. And, she was joined by the awesome Bruce Ricketts of perennially acclaimed Mecha Uma, an “absurdly delicious” creative Japanese omakase that will soon shut its doors after nine years with a new dining adventure to come.   

“This event goes beyond just celebrating our 10th anniversary. It’s our way to say thank you to our close friends who’ve had a hand in shaping what Gallery by Chele is today,” said chef-partner Chele Gonzalez. Originally hailing from Torrelavega Spain, Chele built his resume by working in Spain’s best kitchens like El Bulli, El Celler de Can Roca–and for Andoni at  Mugaritz, which Chele says has been one of the “greatest culinary impacts.” He relocated to Manila for a chef’s gig at the Sofitel Manila. After the restaurant shuttered from a hurricane, Chele met with architect Carlo Calma and they decided to open Gallery Vask, which at the time was a new kind of restaurant that incorporated Chele’s love of modernity in food and his Basque background with Filipino cuisine.

The menu in this artsy, fine-casual space started as tasting-only, and hit No. 35 on Asia’s 50 Best List in 2018. They rebranded to Galley by Chele, and then after covid and its damaging effects on the F&B industry, introduced a la carte options. Many signature dishes like Pearls (Scallops) and Sweet Corn Tamales remain, however Chele and Carlos were seeking a more approachable space that felt welcoming and warm, and still . Yet, though the dining options might have changed, the heart and core of the restaurant has never wavered and is still promoting Filipino culture to the world. You’ll now find Gallery By Chele on Asia’s Best Discovery list.

Back to the event, we were dazzled with an 11-course menu featuring Chele and Carlos’s signature dishes like the 500, a silky soup with red snapper based on a 500-year-old recipe from Mindanao, as well as their Tiradito, a ceviche-like dish that pays homage to the Filipino kinilaw.  The visiting chefs pulled their weight, chipping in such dishes as Royer’s famous Kampot pepper-crusted pigeon, and zurrukutuna, a Basque bread soup by Aduriz. After the party was the after-party: snap-happy media, long-time Gallery customers, and chefs drinking, lechon-grazing and dancing the night away, thanks to Chele’s impressive DJ skills. “At the heart of our celebrations is a belief that our friendships, both here and abroad, are what make Gallery by Chele a better restaurant,” Carlos said as we headed the next day to Shake Shack for a Filipino-inflected pop-up by Navarra of Toyo Eatery, further punctuating the notion of a supportive culinary network.

What’s next? Calma, the acclaimed Filipino architect and visual artist who brought Chele’s restaurant dreams and visions to life, is teaming up with him again for a secret project set to open in 2024. T+L had the first sneak peek that began with an exciting helicopter ride across Manila to a stunning outdoor space that will be home to a new Spanish restaurant concept in a building that could easily be considered a work of art. There’s a lot more going on that will be shared by the team in due time and T+L is sure to be there early, so watch this space!  

www.gallerybychele.com; 5/F Clipp Center, 11th Ave corner 39th Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig City, Metro Manila, Philippines; six-course dinner Php 4,400, 10-course dinner Php 5,500.

Images courtesy of Gallery by Chele.

THE BUSINESS DISTRICT OF Toranomon has a lot going for it these days. Besides a catchy name (Toranomon means “Tiger’s Gate” in Japanese), the neighborhood is ringed by the government offices of Kasumigaseki, the financial center of Marunouchi, and the glitzy shopping of Ginza. This year, a four-skyscraper, decade-plus mega-development called Toranomon Hills was completed, adding a new subway station and enough retail, residential, and commercial space to rival any of Tokyo’s better-known hubs.

Naturally, all that action has attracted a bevy of restaurants and bars, including the relocation to Toranomon of well-established culinary powerhouses like Florilège and Nihonryori Kanda. With the F&B scene really heating up, we’ve curated a roundup of some of our favorite hangouts, starting with the neighborhood’s grande dame…

Rooftop Bar at Andaz Tokyo

The opening of this 52nd-floor bar in 2014 marked the start of Toranomon’s transformation. The giddy views of Tokyo Bay and Rainbow Bridge from the soaring-ceilinged, semi-open-air terrace and craft cocktails full of Japanese flavors made the neighborhood worth visiting. Nearly a decade later, hotel guests still have to compete with after-work Tokyoites coming for a bit of live music and the bar’s famous sliders. Pro tip: a carafe of Andaz’s original sake “52,” a junmai ginjo produced in collaboration with 150-year-old Miyagi brewer Niizawa, is designed to pair with sushi but goes strangely well with the bar’s truffle fries too.

apothéose

This new wave restaurant by Narisawa protégé Keita Kitamura is part of the newly opened TOKYO NODE complex in Toranomon Hills Station Tower and marks the chef’s triumphant return to Japan after years of being pelted with accolades in Paris. Passing the open-air garden and infinity pool on the way in, it’s easy to forget the restaurant is 49 floors up, but the views from the floor-to-ceiling windows in the Noma-esque monotone dining room quickly make it clear. After that, all focus is on the thrilling delicacy of the food, with ingredients sourced from around Japan coaxed into full-throated flavor.

Gold Bar at EDITION

The Tokyo EDITION’s Insta-worthy bar has been a hit with locals since it opened in 2022. While we were initially drawn in by the shiny black and gold interior, we’ve kept coming back for the rock-solid mixology. Inspired by the golden age of cocktails, the menu features elevated versions of the classics. Think punches, sours, and fizzes dolled up for the new millennium and given a Japanese twist. The recently released Two Faces menu adds to the fun with aspects only visible by blacklight. It’s a lot of flash-bang style, but with plenty of substance too.

Toranomon Brewery

If beers are more your thing, head to this brewpub collaboration between Japan’s Nihonbashi Brewery and Taiwan’s Sunmai. Both companies have their beers on tap, but the must-try is the jointly brewed Lemon Sour Ale, a light and tangy confection that blends the tart flavor of a Japanese bar classic into a lightly hopped ale. Served over ice, it’s weird, delicious, and deeply refreshing. They also have organic salads sourced from a farm in neighboring Kanagawa to balance out the damage of a boozy night.

Tachigui Sushi Akira

This more casual sister restaurant to perennial fave Sushi Shoryu opened in 2021 and takes sushi back to its fast-food roots. Tachigui means “eating while standing” in Japanese and that’s exactly what it sounds like. Akira serves the same quality of seafood as its high-end sibling but by-the-nigiri at a cramped basement counter for just six. You get in, eat delicious sushi at a fast clip, and get out to make room for the next in line. The lighter-on-the-wallet approach has proved popular, particularly at lunch time, so expect to wait for a chance to belly up. And be sure to check their Instagram for their ever-evolving opening hours.

Memento Mori

Tucked into an unassuming corner of the Toranomon Hills Business Tower is Memento Mori, a moody bar with cacao-themed craft cocktails. Put cloyingly sweet chocolate cream liqueurs right out of your mind, though. The cocktails here are more Aztec Xocolatl that Swiss Miss cocoa, with deep complexity and unexpected botanicals. Take the velvety Arequipa, for example. Beet juice and Lapsang Souchong-infused vodka get a bitter-note punch up from fermented cacao syrup and a dusting of Amazon cacao. The menu also includes other far-flung ingredients if chocolate isn’t your thing. The giant water bug G&T is worth a try just for the photo op and bragging rights. And business starts from 2 p.m. for a cheeky afternoon mocktail or parfait.

Kotora Komichi

Kotora Komichi (“Little Tiger Alley”) is the latest in a string of neo-yokochos popping up around Tokyo. Post war, yokocho were hidden alleyways with slap-dash black markets and ramshackle food and drink stands. Most of them have been lost to development, but a renaissance of purpose-built, indoor yokocho is reviving the fun of hopping from booth to booth to try every flavor of regional Japanese soulfood. At Kotora Komichi, you can have a giant sushi roll followed by a Hokkaido lamb skillet and wash it down with Kansai’s famous takoyaki balls, if that’s how you want to roll. The design is over-the-top kitsch, with washi-paper lanterns and brightly lacquered parasols, but after a few carafes of powerful Okinawan awamori, it is the perfect backdrop for a boozy photo shoot.   

Le Pristine

The newest name on this list opened just a few days ago, the first Asian outpost from Dutch master chef Sergio Herman, whose now-shuttered Oud Sluis attained three Michelin stars. Actually, we should say “outposts” because these restaurants are a Toranomon two-fer: Le Pristine Café Tokyo, a sophisticated casual restaurant, and Le Pristine Tokyo by Sergio Herman, a fine-diner set to meld the essence of one-star Le Pristine in Antwerp with the heart of Japan. Watch this space for more information. Or, if you’re in the neighborhood, it won’t be hard to find, with its, unusual for here, glass-windowed façade abuzz with diners at street level.

Eureka!

The honorable mention in this list goes to this sake-focused modern izakaya located in the neighboring Nishi Azabu district because it’s worth every yen of the short cab ride over. Run by well-known sake sommelier Marie Chiba, the counter restaurant’s ever-changing drinks list is full of hard-to-find artisanal brews as well as popular big names. But even total novices need not fret because the knowledgeable staff are pros as finding customers something they’ll like. Just tell them what you normally imbibe, pick an appetizer from the menu of the day, and they’ll do the rest. We recommend starting with the signature poached egg with squid ink mayonnaise for a moreish morsel with visual impact. We guarantee you’ll leave a sake convert.

Lede and hero image courtesy of Hyatt.

Everyone comes to Asia to eat. Yes, heritage, nature, beautiful traditions and inventive modernity – but, c’mon, really to eat. And the outstanding F&B culture here encompasses all of those facets in delicious spades. It’s one of the top reasons our readers say they country-hop around our region: food quests, hard-to-book restaurants, chefs and bartenders they’ve seen on TV or are hoping to discover. What’s cooking, Asia? Everything! And what better guide to it than your on-the-ground source for insider intel for the past 15 years? That’s T+L, and we can only do it with our amazing network of tuned-in friends and contributors… and this year, our Tastemakers 2023 panelists.

We asked trusted food writers, enthusiastic foodies and merry drinkers for their picks of the best restaurants and bars around the region, and after months of extensive research and deliberation, we nailed a solid inaugural list to guide your foodie travels in Southeast Asia.

Since this ranking is founded on personal encounters, please do not think of it as absolute; nevertheless, we consider it a respectable and exciting overview of present culinary preferences and a reliable gauge of the finest dining and drinking establishments throughout our oh-so-happening region.

Here are our T+L Tastemakers 2023 panelists who gave us their top recommendations for not only where to eat and drink in their home countries, but also the places that have stood out during their travels.

Kee Foong

Freelance writer, traveler and polyglutton who has joyfully eaten his way around the world without necessarily knowing the language of a place. Just as happy with street food and hole-in-the-wall joints as Michelin and World’s 50 Best Restaurants. When in doubt, point and try. @keepicks

Agnes Chee

Agnes Chee is a food columnist residing in Hong Kong. She writes a weekly food column published in Hong Kong Economic Journal and frequently contributes to other publications in China. @yanwei525

Chris Dwyer

I’m a British freelance food and travel writer who has been lucky to enjoy wayyyy too many good meals, from roadside stalls to Michelin-starred temples. @chrismdwyer

Elaine Wong

Elaine is CMO of Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s premier epicurean lifestyle media group. A seasoned brand curator, food and beverage enthusiast and travel connoisseur, Elaine enjoys life as a digital nomad, discovering extraordinary experiences while connecting to cultures and communities around the world in the pursuit of meaning and happiness. She’s mostly in Macau / Hong Kong but is always on the go and ready for spicy noodles or Champagne. @e_for_eat

Jed Doble

After a long stint in banking, Jed transitioned to publishing and is now a highly regarded food writer and publishing professional in Jakarta. Founder of Foodies Media in 2016, Indonesia’s top F&B outlet, he’s dedicated to sharing the pursuit of deliciousness. Jed collaborates with esteemed titles such as Condé Nast Traveler, Time Out Jakarta, SilverKris by Singapore Airlines, and Time Out Singapore. A true food enthusiast, he comfortably enjoys meals at roadside warungs or Michelin-starred establishments. @jed.doble

Aja Ng

From writing menus and reviews to being chef on a private yacht, developing recipes and making content for food networks, to consulting in kitchens and working with restaurants on public relations and marketing, Aja spends much of her work and leisure time researching, planning, analyzing and obsessing over food. Good food equates to pleasure, and she is blessed to be constantly surrounded with nature’s bounty. @aja_ng

Nik Michael Imran

Chef Nik Michael Imran is of Australian-Malaysian heritage and is based in Kuala Lumpur. He grew up under the cooking influence of his chef dad before competing in MasterChef Malaysia in 2011, which ignited a burgeoning career from terrestrial television to regional food channels. Nowadays, he travels the region as a Culinary Advisor for Emborg or cooking at home with his wife and daughter. @nik9_

Monica Tindall

Monica Tindall is the founder and editor of The Yum List, a luxury gourmet travel website based in Malaysia and covering the world. With well over a decade on the job, she has penned more than 5,000 gourmet travel articles, consults internationally for the F&B industry, and is a judge on several industry panels. @theyumlist

Aaron Khor Ching

My passion for food, especially local cuisine, blossomed during family dinners in my modern Peranakan upbringing. Raised in a household blending traditions, my father’s cooking of traditional Peranakan dishes for occasions like Chinese New Year and Christmas was a cornerstone. We embraced diverse culinary cultures at our table, not necessarily fusion but a respectful coexistence of traditional styles. This inclusivity is what I adore about food—it transcends boundaries. I pursued a culinary career at KDU University College in Malaysia, worked at Restaurant Locavore and Dewakan, and now own Fifty Tales, where I celebrate our rich local culture through food. Living in a culturally diverse country fuels my culinary exploration, connecting the past with exciting new tastes. @aarondotk

Alison Christ

Christ, Certified Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers, hails from New York with a long stint in Washington, D.C. After leaving America in 2012, Christ spent five years in Hong Kong working as a natural wine spokesperson, sommelier and consultant. In 2017, she relocated to Malaysia where she continues her passion for organic wine. Alison curates innovative, fun and inspiring experiences and blind tastings. In 2022, Alison founded Cheong Somm Wine Bar in Penang. @christthesomm

Jin Perez-Go

Jin Perez-Go is food and travel content creator and is behind one of Manila’s most followed social media accounts, Jin Loves to Eat, where she documents her meals and travels around the globe. She loves exploring new cities, discovering new flavors, and is constantly seeking the next gastronomic adventure. She has been a constant figure in the Philippine dining scene for over a decade. A respected foodie among peers, Jin keeps her followers satiated with her honest reviews, recommendations, and food advice. @jinlovestoeat

Grace Ma

I’ve been covering the latest trends and interviewing trailblazers in the lifestyle, travel and dining arenas for more than 15 years. While discovering the most exciting dining spots around the world and picking the most brilliant culinary minds on their inspirations are my motivation, what comforts my stomach and soul is a piping hot bowl of minced pork noodles slathered in vinegar and chili. @littlehappyideas

Daniel Goh

Daniel Goh is editor of SpiritedSingapore.com, an online publication covering the drinks and dining scene in Singapore. Daniel is a Certified Specialist of Wine, a French Wine Scholar, and a Whisky Ambassador. @danielgoh

Nimmi Malhotra

I am a wine writer and judge based in Singapore. I also specialize in bar culture, gastronomy, and travel and work with a number of magazines and online platforms including Channel News Asia Luxury, The Peak, and the Drinks Business. I hold a WSET Diploma and a master’s in marketing from Monash University, Australia. @nimmimalhotra.wine

Sarah Huang Benjamin

Sarah is a culinary creative and chef based in Singapore and KL. Her recipes and content showcase modern, approachable ways to recreate flavors from across Asia. With a background in sociology and heritage research, Sarah believes that food is a vehicle for storytelling, and that beyond just delicious food, eating and cooking are ways of understanding other people and cultures. Sarah has previously hosted cooking shows on the Asian Food Network and elsewhere. @sarahhuangbenjamin

Christian Barker

During two decades as a journalist and editor, Christian Barker has covered style, culture, entertainment, travel, business and luxury for publications including the FT, SCMP, GQ, Forbes, Esquire, CNBC, and Travel+Leisure, among others. He also established luxury website BLLNR.com, and was founding editor-in-chief of classic menswear bible, The Rake magazine. Passionate about sharp tailoring, tasty tipples and good food (from authentic hawker fare to the fanciest fine dining), Sydney-bred Barker has lived in Singapore for 18 years. @christianbbarker

Litti Kewkacha

A food enthusiast turned F&B entrepreneur, I’ve spent the past 25 years traveling the world, particularly indulging in fine dining. Starting as a Tastemaker (social media ambassador) for 50 Best, I now proudly serve as the Chairperson for the Southeast Asia region. @litsfree

Nalina Suranakarin

Nalina, a prominent luxury marketing and branding specialist in Thailand, is a lifestyle connoisseur with a deep passion for gastronomy. In the past year, she has explored the finest hotels, upscale dining venues, and local gems across Asia and Europe. Known for impeccable taste, meticulous attention to detail, and a love for luxury brands, storytelling, and craftsmanship, Nalina is set to share her insider’s knowledge on the crème de la crème of international luxury experiences. @nalinalifestyle

Mapeng Phongsila Commak

As a food activist and avid traveler, I’ve dedicated the latter half of my life to savoring the culinary delights of northern Thailand. While some associate good food with luxury, I believe it’s a reflection of place and people. It involves reacting and harmonizing local ingredients, promoting the health and welfare of the community. Recognizing and respecting this philosophy is the essence of my travels. @phongsilacommak

Mario Tolentino

Chef Mario Tolentino, founder of Point of View Hospitality, is a culinary veteran with more than two decades of global experience. With a portfolio spanning NYC, Miami, LA, San Francisco, Hong Kong and most recently Bangkok. Mario has successfully created and rebranded numerous hospitality concepts. His journey, beginning at the California Culinary Academy, includes winning appearances on “Chopped” and “Recipe for Deception.” With his “cool, calm, and creative” mantra and a keen eye for emerging trends, Mario’s leadership and adaptability continue to redefine the evolving dining landscape. @chefmariotolentino

Vincent Vichit-Vadakan

I write about food because I am endlessly curious about what we eat and what it says about us and our outlook on life. People who are passionate about making and sharing food are almost always generous souls with good stories to tell. In addition to writing about food, I am a versatile cook, whether at home or in professional kitchen. Chances are that I am thinking about my next meal. I’d love it if you could join me. @vincentinparis

Megan Leon

For the last decade, I’ve been surrounded by the F&B industry through culinary school, working as a cook and currently as a writer. The love of food through culture has long been ingrained in my roots thanks to my mom who also comes from the industry and has taught me everything I know. This quote resonates always: “good food is the common ground shared by all and immigration is fundamental to good food.” @lagringabkk

Daniel Hoai Nguyen

Daniel Nguyen is the founder of Song Cai Distillery, a Vietnam distillery and winery. He has nearly a decade of experience working in agriculture in Vietnam, encompassing highland forestry to lowland fisheries. His work spans fermentation, the documentation and conservation of heirloom species, as well as the production of world-class spirits and wines. He is the Vietnam country host of Roads and Kingdoms, founded by Anthony Bourdain, specializing in immersive culinary and cultural experiences. @rhizome7

Nhi Nhan

Nhi Nhan is a food blogger and writer, sharing her passion for culinary exploration through captivating storytelling. With a keen eye for detail and a discerning palate, she crafts engaging articles for a leading food magazine. Her unique blend of creativity and expertise shines through her delectable tastes and insightful reviews. Nhi has cultivated a loyal following who eagerly anticipate her next mouthwatering discovery. Through her work, she continues to inspire and delight food enthusiasts worldwide. @anotherfoodaddict

Jovel Chan

For the past 2.5 years, Jovel has tracked Vietnam’s dining scene, featured on platforms like TODAY, Our Grandfather Story, and Epicure. Beyond writing, she’s an industry speaker (Meet the Experts 2022) and F&B judge (Diageo World Class Finals Vietnam, Vietnam Whiskey and Cocktail Festival). In 2023, the Singapore Tourism Board appointed Jovel ‘Vietnam F&B Consultant,’ leading chef collaborations. As an F&B consultant, she offers invaluable insights to Golden Gate Group, PepsiCo, and Kantar. Lastly, she founded SAIGON SOCIAL, organizing food and drink experiences, including #SaigonSupperClub. @jovel.chan

I FIRST BECAME part of this neighborhood when I opened my restaurant in 2013. And although that venture ended, I fell so in love with Poblacion and its West Village vibe that I bought a home here, too. In its heyday—and mine—this unique barangay (district) in Makati saw a gentrification that moved beyond the girly bars and midget boxing of the red-light precinct into the more trendy space of speakeasies and hipster clubs. It was the place to be: a vibrant destination with edge and personality wedged into the homogenous Metro
Manila landscape of super malls and chain restaurants. 

The pandemic saw this gritty drinking neighborhood shutter its doors, leaving a ghost town in its wake. Venturing for a walk outside my home stirred anxiety: many sadly disenfranchised people had sought shelter in abandoned buildings, the crime rate went up, and nary a business was open. Very few establishments survived, and the ones that did were those able to capture the takeout food market. The future of my beloved quarter looked bleak. 

But when the world started to reawaken, so did this town. A newly leveled playing field allowed a fresh wave of businesses to invest in Poblacion’s renaissance. 

“Poblacion is an adventure,” declares Jeffrey Oh, co-founder of Notorious Concepts, the company behind Japonesa and Peruana. “It’s like a visual representation of how I feel about the Philippines, a place where anything is possible.” Back in 2019, this likely meant that you weren’t exactly sure how your night was going to unfold, thanks to a deadly combination of draft craft beer, aged tequila shots, and hair-raising concoctions. One bar would lead you to the next until dawn broke. Today, “anything is possible takes on a whole new meaning. 

Notorious Concepts—one of the many who had struggled to find a retail space pre-covid— decided to invest in real estate during Poblacion’s darkest pandemic days. “If we took a gamble and lost because the world ended, it was a gamble I was willing to take,” laughs James Thomas, co-founder and CEO. “It has the most vibrant concepts you will find in the Philippines. You come here and discover a lot—nothing you would find in a mall. That’s the charm of Poblacion.” 

The biggest shift in the neighborhood is the presence of more sophisticated dining options. The food scene has evolved from bar chow and late-night pub grub to global cuisine, wine-forward menus, and fine-dining tasting experiences. Caviar was once unimaginable in Poblacion; today, it’s a mainstay of chef Aaron Isip’s Balai Palma. 

“Most of the spaces are able to incubate their brands here,” shares Jenny Yrasuegui, founder of Square One Hospitality Concepts, the business behind La Vie en Rose, Lunes Everyday Dining, and Kosumosu. “The clientele is more willing to try new things.” It’s precisely this openness and curiosity that appeals to restaurateurs. As Oh explains, “Poblacion gives you the safe space as an operator to go a little crazier.” 

And unlike other areas in Manila where competition is cutthroat, here the industry is more collaborative and supportive. As Paolo Flores of Good Sh*t Coffee puts simply: “We are each other’s customers!” There’s no better stamp of approval than from your peers. 

Many of the places are run by small businesses, some purposefully operate with the intention to be a hangout place for friends and family. This is the story of Flores’s café: “Most of the time, guests can interact with the owners and chefs. It has a very good community vibe which adds character to the whole experience.” 

Poblacion is also one of Manila’s few walking districts that hasn’t been artificially contrived by a developer, making it a truly organic neighborhood brimming with soul. Indie barbershops, sari-sari stores, street vendors, a bustling wet market, Midcentury townhomes, and a 40-year-old salon named Be Beautiful For Him (“Him” being God, natch) cozily cohabitate with sleek low-rise condos, design studios, quirky boutique hotels, snazzy cocktail bars and creative eateries. To say the district is mixed-used is an understatement. 

“We have to be respectful of the residents, work closely with the local government, and really foster that sense of community,” Yrasuegui says. Kaela Ruiz, co-founder of Good Sh*t Coffee relishes working in Poblacion because of the people. “It’s a much more artsy crowd,” she says. “I love walking around and saying hi to everyone, especially my peers in the business. We all know each other. It’s a village!” 

It’s nice to see my hood back—more mature, less inebriated, yet still lots of fun. Which, I’d like to think, is kind of like me. 

The T+L Guide to the Best of Poblacion Right Now: 

La Pita

A wall of pickles and chilies welcomes guests into this proper hole-in-the-wall eatery. Serving up the metro’s creamiest and thickest hummus and scrumptiously smoky baba ghanoush, La Pita is a marvel of Mediterranean delights. Don’t miss their insanely crispy falafel that yields to a bright green center of herbaceous goodness and grilled spiced beef arayes with tahini sauce. Perfect for a quick lunch date or casual bite before weekday drinks. @lapita.mkt; 5652 Don Pedro St.; food and drinks for two Pp1,500.

Lunes Everyday Dining

Open daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., this bright and airy joint is the neighborhood kantina serving fresh spins on Filipino comfort classics. Pop in for a breakfast meeting and try their kaldereta style shakshouka or turmeric arroz caldo. Stay for lunch and order the Chicken Piaparan: a Mindanaoan classic revisited with sous vide crispy chicken on a toasted coconut curry, topped with fried shallots, garlic, chilies and cilantro. @lunes.everydaydining; 6060 R. Palma St.; food and drinks for two Pp1,500.

Balai Palma

Hidden behind a bamboo-clad door of a nondescript terrace house is the wabi sabi world of chef Aaron Isip. The Paris-trained, internationally awarded chef has made Balai Palma his creative playground. The seven-course tasting menu is a journey through the Philippine seas, with layered textures and playful vibrant flavors that are at once familiar and surprising. Fresh Pacific seabream with dragonfruit aguachile, ginger and pomelo is a fun take on a classic kilawin. Ube in Three Textures is an ode to the local purple yam, elevating the humble root crop with live clams and Oscietra caviar. A singular fine dining destination set in the heart of Poblacion. Don’t miss chef’s newest baby, Kasa Palma, which is set to open soon. @balaipalma; Unit B 6081 R. Palma St.; tasting menu Pp 7,500 per person, five-course shared plates menu Pp 3,500 per person.

Good Sh*t Coffee

Pop in for the Instagrammable pastel walls and cheeky signage, stay for the coffee and freshly made pastries. Born out of a need for community and connection during the pandemic, this small café is bursting with good vibes and good brews. Giant sourdough croissants and other creative treats are baked fresh daily next door to accompany their crazy cuppas. Try their Spanish Latte with condensed milk or the Cereal Milk Latte with crunchy toppings. @goodshtcoffee; 5872 Enriquez St.; coffee and croissants for two Pp480.

Japonesa

This Japanese-Peruvian restaurant is a great after-work spot where guests can indulge in tasty Nikkei-style dishes and stylish cocktails. Geometric patterns, sassy llama portraits, groovy lighting and cool beats make for the perfect setting to end the day on a joyful note. Start with some of their sake-based drinks paired with tasty tiraditos and sushi rolls followed by some of their heavier bites like a tender grilled pulpo or the Lomo Salteado―a sauteed beef tenderloin in a smoky, savory sauce. @japonesapoblacion; 5658 Don Pedro St.; dinner and drinks for two Pp2,500.

Peruana

Japonesa’s sister establishment is a dining destination all on its own. The kitschy, hand-painted interiors set the tone, as Peruana Cocina Latina puts the fiesta on la mesa with the bold and zesty flavors of their Peru-forward menu. With everything made to share, you’ll be fighting over the beef cheek tequeños with an irresistible cheese pull, and the last piece of their Peruvian-style roast chicken that’s been brined for 24 hours, generously rubbed in spices and charred to perfection. Indulge your inner child and order the Drunken Llama, a mezcal and Aperol concoction served with a helium balloon just, quite literally, for laughs. @peruana_cocinalatina; 5658 Don Pedro St.; dinner and drinks for two Pp2,500.

Bibio

Even if you’re one of those folks who tends to scrunch their noses at natural wines, the owners of this cute vinotheque are positive they can proffer something to your liking. The worldwide selection includes lovely pet nats from Australia, orange wines from Japan, and organic Chablis; each label is carefully chosen from sustainable and organic producers. Soak up the vino with a house-cured pastrami sandwich or steak frites if you’re feeling extra peckish. @bibio.mnl; 5659 Don Pedro St.; dinner and a bottle of wine for two Pp3,500.

La Vie en Rose

Walking through the gates and up the stairs of a low-rise residential building seems like a strange way to reach one of Manila’s most happening bars. Check twice because you might accidentally ring the neighbor! This jewel box of curiosities and cocktails is properly someone’s apartment unit. Delightfully weird, the private speakeasy is filled with one of the partners’ incredible collection of taxidermy, tribal statues, and ornate antiques making it feel like the set of a Sherlock Holmes film directed by Wes Anderson. Whether you’re there to buy a bottle to enjoy with friends or explore their well- crafted beverages, be sure to book because they get packed! Everyone wants a photo with their famous polar bear. @lavieenrose_mnl; address given upon booking; 63-9/5645-76850; drinks for two Pp700.

Bar 55

Inspired by the gritty-chic energy of Bangkok’s Thonglor neighborhood and fueled by the need to have a place to hang in Manila that felt more her own speed, owner Milka Romero converted a small urban townhouse into a sophisticated cocktail bar. Lofty ceilings and dark, moody interiors punctuated by glittering chandeliers create the perfect stage for the lush libations. Think daintily, hand painted, frothy rum sours; tom yum margaritas; or a refreshing beer-based beverage topped with a sneaky passion fruit-filled, white-chocolate ping pong ball. Oh, what a sly nod to both beer pong and Bangkok’s infamous red-light districts. @bar55.ph; 5903 Matilde St.; drinks for two Pp1,110.

Photographed by Scott A. Woodward, unless otherwise noted.

THAILAND’S NORTHEAST REGION is one of our top off-the-radar places to visit because of its unspoiled charm and eclectic vibe. Isaan, the name for the area near Laos that covers nearly 20 provinces, is known as an agricultural hub but also boasts stellar cuisine. Last year, Michelin Thailand expanded to take in four Isaan provinces, and included in its guide the adored Samuay & Sons restaurant led by trailblazer chef Weerawat ‘Num’ Triyasenawat. As Num will tell you, eating in Isaan has a lot more in common with Laos than the rest of Thailand; here pungent, bold and fiery heat are key factors—think funky pla raa (fermented fish), spicy jaew (dipping sauce), and bamboo shoots. 

While down in the capital, Isaan food has been considered more on the rustic end of street food, a new cheerleader of the region, Nutthida ‘Eve’ Palasak, 41, the vibrant owner of Zao restaurant in Bangkok, is working to change that. Born in Sisaket, Eve studied fashion in the U.K. before, at the behest of her family, returning to her hometown of Ubon Ratchathani, where she sold tractors for six years. Her deep admiration of and pride for the food and people of Ubon led her to open Zao—with all the tractor employees in tow!— serving home-cooked food they grew up with yet adding an aesthetically modern feel. 

Don’t be surprised to catch Eve dressed in Bangkok’s best designers while shopping at the local wet market or making one of her famously super-spicy som tums (green papaya or green mango salad) in a wooden mortar, to pair with sticky rice. Some folks used to turn their noses up at rural Isaan, but Eve is breaking those perceptions with her own chic style mixed with earthiness and heart. 

Papaya salads and grilled chicken are a must when eating Isaan food, but if you want to truly discover the northeast cuisine try the steamed catfish with Isaan herbs and chilies, wrapped in banana leaf. There’s a variety of fragrant salads that extend past the typical som tum. Go for the one in which Ubon dong daeng noodles replace papaya and are packed in with herbs, lime slices, tons of chilies and crunchy long beans. Another winner is the cubed watermelon salad dusted with ground rice powder and doused in a funky but mouthwatering pla raa dressing. And be sure your table is colorfully covered in dishes of Eve’s many chili jaew, an Isaan kaleidoscope! 

instagram.com/zaoisan; 155 Soi Pridi Banomyong 25, Bangkok; Bt500 per person. 

Images courtesy of Zao Zen.

MANY MALAYSIAN CHEFS are looking inward to recipes and ideas that have shaped the culture over centuries—it’s those melting pot vibes. As for bars, KL dominates the favorites but Penang and even Kota Kinabalu get love. Here are the best restaurants and bars in Malaysia for 2023 as selected by our Tastemakers panel.

Edited by Elyza Khamil, Aishwarya Pant-Menon, Alisa Phibunsiri-D’Addario and Samai Singh

To learn about our voting panel, visit travelandleisureasia.com/hk/tl-tastemakers/tastemakers-panel-2023

Malaysia’s 25 Best Restaurants

Aliyaa Kuala Lumpur
aliyaa.com

Au Jardin Penang
restaurant-aujardin.com

Beta KL Kuala Lumpur
betakl.com

Chipta 11A Selangor
chipta11a.carrd.co

Cho Cha Food Store Kuala Lumpur
chochafoodstore.com

Cili Kampung Langkawi
instagram.com/cilikampung_langkawi

Communal Table by Gen Penang
gencommunaltable.com

Dewakan Kuala Lumpur
dewakan.my

Fuego Kuala Lumpur
fuegodining.com

Joloko Kuala Lumpur
bar-joloko.com

Kayra Kerala Cuisine Kuala Lumpur
kayra.com.my

Leens Middle Eastern Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/leens.kl

Lubuk Bangku Cabin Cafe Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/lubukbangk

Nero Nero Kuala Lumpur
neronerokl.com

Palillos Yakitori Bar Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/palilloskl

Nadodi Kuala Lumpur
nadodikl.com

Natalina KL Kuala Lumpur
natalinakl.com

Olivia Deli Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/oliviadeli.bangsar

Pinchos Tapas Bar Kuala Lumpur
pinchoskl.com

Sambal Hijau Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/restoransambalhijau

Samudra @ Anjung Patin Ville Kuala Lumpur
samudrapatin.com

Sek Yuen Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/sekyuenrestaurant

Studio Kuala Lumpur
studiorestaurant.co

Village Park Restaurant Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/villageparkofficial

Yun House Kuala Lumpur
fourseasons.com

Malaysia’s 10 Best Bars

Archipelago Penang
facebook.com/archipelagogeorgetown

BAC Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/highbac.kl

Backdoor Bodega Penang
backdoorbodega.com

Bar Flips Kota Kinabalu
instagram.com/bar_flips

Bar Trigona Kuala Lumpur
fourseasons.com

Coley Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/coleylumpur

Jann Kuala Lumpur
jannkl.com

Jungle Bird Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/ junglebirdkl

Penrose Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/penrose.kl

Reka:Bar Kuala Lumpur
instagram.com/reka.bar

Of course these lists are not thorough or definitive—there are countless places worthy of your awed first-bites and appreciative slurps. But these 25 restaurants and 10 bars in each of eight destinations exemplify the revelatory dining and drinking experience that is Southeast Asia today, why everyone comes here to eat. Make your bookings first (or check when the stall is open), then plan everything else around that.

Lede and hero image by Getty Images Plus/iStock/Nikada.

MEET FIVE OF OUR FAVORITE CHEFS across Southeast Asia—who happen to be female. All their restaurants are worth traveling for, and if you want to supplement your trips with their must-visit restaurant, bar and hotel recs around the region

RENATTA MOELOEK

By Kathryn Romeyn

“WHEN I FOUND cooking I just [realized]: This is my jam,” says Indonesian chef Renatta Moeloek, a judge on Masterchef Indonesia and the talent behind Jakarta’s new Glou Wine & Bistro (instagram/glou.jakarta)—a collaboration with her friends from VIN+ Wine & Beyond—and the private dining and event space Ruma Dining. As a young teen, Moeloek began experimenting in the kitchen, cooking meals as “a ritual between me and my friends.” After stage-ing (from the French word stagiere, which means intern) at two Jakarta restaurants during high school, she decided to pursue culinary school, and the now-29-year-old’s compelling, native produce–informed cooking has evolved ever since.  

More than a particular style of cooking, Moeloek savors the discovery of new-to-her ingredients, which are seemingly limitless in Indonesia. The eastern Maluku Islands, for example, which she visited for a YouTube documentary on street cuisines and very old-school tribal food. “It was beautiful, pristine,” she says. “The eating culture is different, I find it almost Scandinavian how everything is fresh, not heavy, full of spices and fat. I don’t think I’ve ever seen them fry anything—it’s very clean and aromatic. 

She milks candlenuts, typically only featured in spice paste, and prefers citrusy green peppercorns to dried ones, but is currently most jazzed about super-rare red kulat pelawan mushrooms from the Bungka Belitung islands that only grow under pelawan trees during heavy rains once a year. “The flavor is very, very special and strong—in between chanterelles and morels,” says Moeloek, who cooks with them at Glou, which she describes as “a melting pot where you want to hang out and ask your friends to do pop-ups.” At the casual “eating house” everything is meant to be shared.  

The concept makes sense considering she started out cooking for those she loved. “I think the philosophy around food changes over time,” Moeloek reflects. “Back in the day I was so into refined food—there’s a bit of your ego that [makes] you want to show what you can do. It was more of a performance.” But, she says, “As I get older, when I cook it’s for others.” The chef strives for a middle ground between what makes her happy and what makes diners even happier. “That’s the rewarding part,” she says.  

Moeloek favorite spots:  

Maluku Islands, Indonesia

I have a documentary on YouTube where we go around Indonesia to check out street cuisines and very old-school tribal food. We went to the most eastern Maluku Islands and it was beautiful, pristine. The eating culture is different, I find it almost Scandinavian how everything is fresh, not heavy, full of spices and fat. I don’t think I’ve ever seen them fry anything—it’s very clean and aromatic. 

Thailand

I really enjoy Thai food and every time I visit Thailand I’m amazed how everything, even in the smallest corner street stall, is somehow perfectly cooked. 

Jakarta & Bali

I go back and forth between Jakarta and Bali, and in Bali the community between chefs is very strong: we go to restaurants to hang out and for nightcaps.  

Sangsaka
For a very chill, relaxed, modern Indonesian place to drink, I really like Sangsaka. They change their menu quite often and it’s a go-to place when I have foreigner friends who want to try Indonesian flavors. They never disappoint. sangsakabali.com

Riung Rasa  is an outdoor backyard barbecue in a garden—very familial with good food and good people always. It feels like home. instagram/riungrasa

Lulu Bistrot  
In Canggu, I really like Lulu Bistrot for French cuisine lulubistrot.com

SKOOL Kitchen  
I enjoy dining at SKOOL Kitchen for great food kissed by fire with a nice bar facing the beach. skoolkitchen.co

7.AM Bakers Club
I get my bread, pastries and best sandwiches at 7.AM Bakers Club. instagram/7am.bakers

Glou Wine & Bistro
In Jakarta I’m always at Glou, but when I crave Japanese food. instagram/glou.jakarta

Kaihomaru
I go to Kaihomaru  in Little Tokyo in Blok M, then hop into izakaya bars around the area for highballs. instagram/kaihomaru_melawai

Carbón
I love the Latin American cuisine at Carbón instagram/carbon.jkt

Acta Brasserie
The ambience is serene at Acta Brasserie, where they serve simple, tasty food next to a golf course.  biko-group.com/acta

PICHAYA ‘PAM’ UTHARNTHARM

By Megan Leon 

BANGKOK-BASED Pichaya ‘Pam’ Utharntharm belongs on the multi-tasking leaderboard. Perhaps you’ve heard of her good-luck-getting-a-reservation restaurant Potong, where her already famous smoked duck is worth the wait. Here, she creative-directs your whole dining journey by way of video menu supplements, eclectic drinks pairings that always start with kombucha and perhaps take in a stop at Opium bar on the roof, a ride in a micro-elevator that’s more like a dumbwaiter, and effusive championing of her local suppliers. But she also has a pair (so far) of Texas barbecue restaurants, has launched a private catering company, she’s a judge on a TV series in search of the next generation of leading Thai chefs, travels the world to share her knowledge and skills, and is the mom of a preschooler.  

Pam took over the narrow, ancient building that housed her family’s traditional Chinese herbal medicine shop in Bangkok’s Chinatown and turned it into one of the most sought-after restaurants in the country. After only two years Potong boasts a Michelin Star and ranks No. 35 on the Asia’s 50 Best list—in the name, she says, of paying homage to her ancestry. 

Thai-Chinese food has been around since Chinese immigrants first settled the riverfront area in Thailand’s nascent capital at least 150 years ago. But her edgy innovation brings it into modern times. Her culinary principle of ‘The 5 Elements’ intertwines her philosophy on heritage and cuisine with the senses of sight, sound, smell, taste and touch, and five elements—salt, acid, spice, maillard reaction, texture. “Each of the elements are meant to formulate a memory that can only happen when the senses are initiated simultaneously,” she says. 

The fragments of this thought process started to take shape earlier on in her career, while cutting her teeth at Jean Georges in New York. She ventured into private dining, and started grill-and-fire-focused Smoked because she’s actually a trained American barbecue pit master. Now she has a catering company called The X Project. Her universe is constantly evolving, but she’s committed to staying grounded. “My favorite comfort food place in Chinatown is Lao Tang Braised Goose (467/1 Yaowarat Rd.), where they serve stewed goose that reminds me of my childhood,” she says. “At the moment I’m traveling constantly post-covid, but I’m trying to minimize travel as much as I can to be close to Potong and my kid.”  

Pam’s Favorite Spots 

Bangkok 

Lao Tang Braised Goose 
My favorite comfort food place in Chinatown is Lao Tang Braised Goose, where they serve stewed goose that reminds me of my childhood. This joint has been around for over 30 years and serves simple dishes, but for Pam, it is very heartwarming and one of the best in the city.  (467/1 Yaowarat Rd,, Bangkok 10100) 

The Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya 
My favorite hotel in Bangkok is the luxurious The Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River. fourseasons.com

The Siam Hotel Bangkok
I’m also fond of The Siam Hotel Bangkok. thesiamhotel.com

Siam Paragon 
For shopping fashion finds I recommend Siam Paragon. siamparagon.co.th

 EmQuartier
The EmQuartier is another favourite of mine. emquartier.co.th

JJ Market
And for local handmade or artisanal products there’s nowhere better than JJ Market also known as the Chatuchak Weekend Market. 

Opium Bar
For drinks I recommend Opium Bar Because it’s my bar! opiumbarbangkok.com

Mahaniyom Bar
I love it for their use of locally-driven ingredients. instagram/mahaniyom.cocktailbar

Nuss Bar
This place boasts of gorgeous temple views. intstagram/nussbarbkk

Bangok Social Club
Pop by here for drinks and soak in the luxurious hotel experience. fourseasons.com

ARCHAN CHAN 

By Ron Gluckman 

ARCHAN CHAN MAY be among the more diminutive chefs in Hong Kong, but she’s had a huge impact since leaving Australia after 13 years in some of the top kitchens there, returning home to helm the delightfully kitschy Ho Lee Fook. 

The quirky modern Cantonese diner has been the rage in so-hip Soho since its opening in 2014, and a 2021 renovation has made it even livelier. Chan added her imprint as one of a few female chefs helming top Cantonese kitchens in the food-crazed city. 

Chan’s resume Down Under reads like a where-to-eat guide: stages at Attica, Acme, Automata, Quay and Six Penny. Having impressed legendary chef Andrew McConnell, Chan took over the bar menu at his two-hatted Cutler & Co. in Melbourne’s trendy Fitzroy suburb, was sous chef at his now-closed Asian-fusion spot Golden Fields in St. Kilda, and then moved to Supernormal—everyone’s favorite always-buzzy, Tokyo-, Shanghai-, Seoul- and Hong Kong-inspired hotspot in the CBD. 

This was a perfect launchpad for her move to Ho Lee Fook, Hong Kong’s lair of lucky cats and hip hop. She added more connections to traditional dishes and flavors she grew up with, when she spent time with her grandmother in the kitchen in Sham Shui Po and learned about nurturing through food. We’re particularly glad of her razor clams. Another of her girlhood favorites was pigeon: she loved the juicy roasted version, but also fried with crispy skin. Instead of choosing, Chan combined both. “It took a bit of research and development, but we created a master-stock crispy skin pigeon.” 

Chan believes that the best contemporary chefs needn’t untether from the past, rather, find less-known angles to probe. For example, Grand Majestic Sichuan in Hong Kong, where “talented chef Theign breaks the stigma of Sichuan only being spicy and shows what the cuisine is all about,” Chan effuses. “Usually, I start with champagne or a cocktail at The Majestic Garden, enjoying the view. They offer a glass of Champagne every time you visit the restroom!” 

A lover of the wok, Chan says that tool is actually a big reason it’s tough to “modernize” Cantonese food—thus doing so is less her goal than exploring and working hard to build a supremely tasty menu. “People recognize that Ho Lee Fook is serious Cantonese food,” she says, “in a playful setting.” Ho Lee Fook still connects with international visitors and local expats, but she is particularly proud to see more Hong Kongers like herself there sharing meals, and memories, with parents and grandparents.  

Chan’s favorite spots: 

Grand Majestic Sichuan, HK
Talented Chef Theign breaks the stigma of Sichuan cuisine only being spicy and shows what the cuisine is all about. Usually, I start with champagne or a cocktail at The Majestic Garden, enjoying the view. They offer a glass of Champagne every time you visit the restroom! grandmajesticsichaun.com

Ju Xing Home, HK
I came across this place by chance. My parents live across the street. The comfort and hearty dishes served here have become my go-to whenever I host overseas chefs.  

This place, I chanced upon – my parents live across the street! Comfort and hearty dishes — it has become my go-to whenever I host overseas chefs. juxinghome.com

Yong Fu, HK
I do not know if I can call it a hidden gem, now that it is on the Asia’s 50 Best list. Ning Bo cuisine is new to me. Dishes here are well-balanced, yet flavorful.  yongfu.hk.com

Jeow Melbourne
Chef Thi is one of the most respected chefs in Melbourne, very driven, full of curiosity and integrity. I have learnt so much from her and how she respects and treats her produce. jeow.net.au

JOHANNE SIY

By Kissa Castañeda

THERE WAS NO LIGHTBULB moment that fueled chef Johanne Siy’s decision to leave her safe, corporate career in Procter & Gamble and start afresh in the hospitality industry. “There was always this compulsion in me to do something I’m passionate about and share that with others,” says the Singapore-based Filipina chef who was named Asia’s 50 Best Female Chef 2023. 

Siy, the head chef of Lolla, had always loved making food but didn’t think of it as a career. But experiences along the way showcased the power of food and convinced her that it was her ultimate calling.  

When she tutored struggling peers in university, she says, “I cannot forget the way their eyes lit up and how they became more attentive whenever I brought them food.” When she moved to Singapore 20 years ago, it wasn’t long before her apartment became the default weekend hangout because she cooked for her colleagues. Food was always the glue that held things together. Knowing this philosophy, it’s immediately obvious why Siy is drawn to multi-generational eateries like Keng Eng Kee for their pork liver claypot rice and moonlight horfun. “Paul, Wayne and the entire family have taken zi char dining to a whole new level with their personalized service. This is something unheard of and a definite game-changer in this category of restaurants.” 

When she made the leap to cooking full-time, first studying at the Culinary Institute of America in New York then into the kitchens of Le Bernardin, Restaurant Andre and Noma, she discovered that it wasn’t an easy environment, especially for a woman. “In the past, I’ve seen how women, including myself, were treated as second-class citizens in kitchens because we were regarded as physically weaker and emotional. You join a brigade and the chefs think they will have to do a lot of the heavy lifting for you. People subconsciously judge you just because of your gender,” she says. 

Siy notes, however, that the world has changed thanks to extraordinary women who have fought against the existing biases and put women on equal footing. “Leaders have started to talk about how to make the workplace a more welcoming place for women. The kitchen is evolving, and it is for the better,” Siy stresses. 

As a flag carrier of the Philippines in Singapore, Siy is ecstatic to share Filipino flavors through her modern dishes at Lolla to a broad set of international diners most of whom are unfamiliar with Filipino cuisine. “While I don’t cook Filipino food per se, I draw a lot of inspiration from it and I am proud to tell the stories from my childhood,” she adds.  

When she has the rare downtime, Siy loves to travel and her trips are unsurprisingly built around food. “I make the restaurant bookings and food itinerary first and then everything else is planned around that. I eat on the streets, in the markets, in fancy restaurants, in convenience stores, and if I’m lucky, in people’s homes which always turn out to be some of the best and most insightful meals.” 

Siy’s favorite spots: 

Sweden 

Fäviken
“This restaurant by Chef Magnus Nilsson was in the middle of nowhere surrounded by nature. It’s a very unique experience anchored by cuisine that is mindful, grounded, has a sense of place and above all delicious. I don’t think there is anything like it today and it’s unfortunate that it is not around anymore. That was a magical place.” Do we want to include this? 

Spain 

Disfrutar Barcelona
Disfrutar in Barcelona makes you feel like a child again—you begin to look at everything with a sense of wonder. www.disfrutarbarcelona.com; C. de Villarroel, 163, 08036 Barcelona, Spain; tasting menu a EU275 per person 

Quique Dacosta, Alicante
Quique wows by distilling the essence of the region on a plate. While you’re there, make sure you also go to Asador Etxebarri – it’s a restaurant that has long been on my list but have not had the chance to visit. en.quiquedacosta.es; Carrer Rascassa, 1, 03700 Dénia, Alicante, Spain; Tasting menu a EU275 per person 

Hong Kong 

Wing Restaurant
I highly recommend this place because of chef Vicky Cheng’s visionary approach to Chinese cuisine. I still dream about their fantastic sugarcane baby pigeon. wingrestaurant.hk; 29 F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong; HKD$1,980 ++ per person  

Japan 

I recently had the good fortune of eating at a number of superb restaurants in Japan. Japan is unique in that there are so many restaurants that are not accessible to the general public. My recommendations consist of restaurants that are democratic in that the only thing you need to book them is advanced planning. I love Sezanne, Florilège and La Cime (not in any order). Chef Daniel Calvert, Chef Hiroyasu Kawate and Chef Yusuke Takada are all doing outstanding things. Their flavor combinations are unique, with their DNA running strongly through the dishes. All elegant, exquisite meals using top-notch ingredients.  

Sezanne
Tokyo, Japan
www.sezanne.tokyo; 1 Chome-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda City, Tokyo; the menu du jour a JPY22,000 (lunch only) 

Florilège
Tokyo, Japan
www.aoyama-florilege.jp/en.html; 2F Garden Plaza D Azabudai Hills, 5-10-7, Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo; the lunch menu starts at JPY 10,000 

La Cime
Osaka, Japan
www.la-cime.com; 3-2-15 1F Kawaramachi, Chuo-ku, Osaka; lunch and dinner JPY 28,000 

Shishi-Iwa House
Karuizawa, Japan
I must mention that I also had a remarkable stay at a design-driven property in Karuizawa called Shishi-Iwa House. It’s a beautiful and inspiring property surrounded by nature and a lot of good local eateries, passionate artisans and natural wonders.” www.shishiiwahouse.jp; 2147-768 Nagakura Kitasaku District, Karuizawa, Nagano; Price: Rooms start at $270 per night. 

Singapore 

Keng Eng Kee
I love casual favorites like Keng Eng Kee for their pork liver claypot rice and moonlight horfun. Paul, Wayne and the entire family have taken zi char dining to a whole new level with their personalized service. This is something unheard of and a definite game-changer in this category of restaurants. www.kek.com.sg; 124 Bukit Merah Lane 1, #01-136, Singapore; around SGD $15 per person or SGD $68 for a set meal for four 

Rotanak Ros 

By Marissa Carruthers 

CHEF ROTANAK ROS, also known as Chef Nak, is championing Cambodian cuisine’s comeback. Her passion for cooking was fueled from a young age when her parents were involved in a traffic accident, and she had to cook for her family of seven. “As time passed, my connection to cooking deepened,” she recalls.  

At 19, the self-taught chef started working at Cambodian Living Arts (CLA), a non-profit dedicated to reviving the arts. During the horror of the Khmer Rouge regime, swathes of the country’s knowledge was destroyed, including recipes that had been passed down orally for generations. Nak realized these recipes needed reviving, akin to what CLA does with the arts. 

She took on the mammoth task of visiting villages countrywide to document the recipes that surviving elders remember from their childhood and ensure they are preserved for future generations in cookbooks. “Reviving our lost recipes is very important because it helps preserve our cultural heritage, our identity, who we are, and how we cook,” she said.  

This is why she appreciates Kravanh Restaurant in Phnom Penh, where many of the recipes came from home kitchens. “It offers a relaxed dining experience and serves traditional dishes, creating a nice blend of ambience and authentic flavors.” 

In 2017, she launched her business, Nak, with a focus on private high-end dining from a charming traditional wooden house on the outskirts of Phnom Penh. Since then, Chef Nak has authored two cookbooks. Her latest debuted in May, Saoy: Royal Cambodian Home Cuisine is a four-year project drawn on the recipes of Princess Norodom Rasmi Sobhana from the 1950s and 1960s.  

Nak is also the inspiration behind the menu that reimagines royal Khmer cuisine at Rosewood Phnom Penh’s Brasserie Louis. And, she most recently opened Chef Nak Culinary Art Center in Phnom Penh. The dynamic hub hosts cooking classes, luxury home dining experiences, homestays, a dedicated studio for cooking shows, and a food and ingredient laboratory.  

“Rooted in history and rich in cross-cultural resonances, my approach is testament to the diverse narratives of my homeland,” Nak said. “I craft harmonious flavor profiles that evoke memories and offer a unique gourmet experience, elevating traditional Cambodian cuisine while staying true to its authentic roots.” 

Nak’s favorite spots: 

Phnom Penh 

Rosewood Phnom Penh
It’s the top choice for indulging in high-end Khmer dishes while enjoying a breathtaking city view. It stands out with its diverse menu, showcasing a commitment to the support and promotion of Khmer cuisine. rosewoodhotels.com 

Kravanh Restaurant
It offers a relaxed dining experience and serves a selection of traditional dishes, creating a nice blend of ambience and authentic flavors. kravanhrestaurant.com 

Central Market
Though not really a restaurant, it’s the go-to spot for the finest street food in town. People can relish delectable treats like grilled squid, steamed crabs, and fried rice noodles that capture the essence of local culinary delights.

HONG KONG HAS REEMERGED from covid enthusiastic, innovative and delicious, if slightly less boisterous. You’re likely to recognize more than a few consistently winning drinking and dining establishments on these lists. Here are the best restaurants and bars in Hong Kong for 2023 as selected by our Tastemakers panel. 

Edited by Elyza Khamil, Aishwarya Pant-Menon, Alisa Phibunsiri-D’Addario and Samai Singh

To learn about our voting panel, visit travelandleisureasia.com/hk/tl-tastemakers/tastemakers-panel-2023

Hong Kong’s 25 Best Restaurants

Amber
mandarinoriental.com

Ando
andohk.com

Caprice
fourseasons.com

Censu
censu.net

CHAAT
rosewoodhotels.com

The Chairman
thechairmangroup.com

Estro
estrohk.com

Hansik Goo
hansikgoo.hk

Ho Lee Fook
holeefook.com.hk

Mono
mono.hk

Mora
mora.com.hk

Neighborhood
61-63 Hollywood Road, Central

New Punjab Club
newpunjabclub.com

Roganic
roganic.com.hk

Samsen
samsen-hk.com

Tate Dining Room
tate.com.hk

Ta Vie
tavie.com.hk

Testina
testina.hk

Vea
vea.hk

Wing
wingrestaurant.hk

Whey
whey.hk

Xin Rong Ji
GF & 1F, China Overseas Building, 138 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai

Yardbird
yardbirdrestaurant.com

Yong Fu
yongfuhk.com

8^1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana
ottoemezzobombana.com

Hong Kong’s 10 Best Bars

Argo
fourseasons.com

Artifact Bar
artifactbar.com

Bar Leone
barleonehk.com

Cardinal Point
cardinalpoint.com.hk

Coa
coa.com.hk

Darkside
rosewoodhotels.com

The Diplomat
thediplomat.hk

Mostly Harmless
instagram.com/mostlyharmlessbar

The Pontiac
instagram.com/wearethepontiac

Quality Goods Club
qualitygoodsclub.com

Of course these lists are not thorough or definitive—there are countless places worthy of your awed first-bites and appreciative slurps. But these 25 restaurants and 10 bars in each of eight destinations exemplify the revelatory dining and drinking experience that is Southeast Asia today, why everyone comes here to eat. Make your bookings first (or check when the stall is open), then plan everything else around that. 

Lede and hero image by Getty Images/Kanchisa Thitisukthanapong.

MICHELIN LAUNCHED IN VIETNAM this year, in recognition of how high-end the dining scene has become and as a harbinger of where it’s going. Cool speakeasies, distillery bars, and sophisticated concepts now run the drinking scene. Here are the best restaurants and bars in Vietnam for 2023 as selected by our Tastemakers panel. 

Edited by Elyza Khamil, Aishwarya Pant-Menon, Alisa Phibunsiri-D’Addario and Samai Singh

To learn about our voting panel, visit www.travelandleisureasia.com/hk/tl-tastemakers/tastemakers-panel-2023

Vietnam’s 25 Best Restaurants

Anan Saigon Saigon
anansaigon.com

An’s Saigon Saigon
instagram.com/ans.saigon

Da Vittorio Saigon
davittorio.com

Duke’s Seafood & Oyster Bar Saigon
dukesoysterbar.vn

Elgin Saigon
instagram.com/elgin.sgn

Esta Saigon Saigon
estasaigon.com

Gia Hanoi
gia-hanoi.com

Hibana by Koki Hanoi
capellahotels.com

Hu Tieu Nam Vang Dat Thanh Saigon
hutiuthandat.vn

La Maison 1888 Da Nang
danang.intercontinental.com

Lau Mam Ut Nhan (Dien Bien Phu) Saigon
409 Pham Van Dong, Phuong 11, Binh Thạnh

Lavelle Library Saigon
lavellelibrary.com

La Villa French Restaurant Saigon
lavilla-restaurant.com.vn

Long Trieu Saigon
thereveriesaigon.com

Lua Wine Bar Saigon
luawinebarvn.com

Madame Lam Saigon
mamamia.vn

Mango Rooms Hoi An
mangomangohoian.com

Oku Phu Quoc
phuquoc.regenthotels.com

Olivia Dining Saigon
oliviadining.com

Pho Hoa Pasteur Saigon
260C Pasteur, Ward 8, District 3

Quince Saigon
quincesaigon.com

Sol Kitchen & Bar Saigon
instagram.com/solkitchenandbar

Nen Light Saigon
instagram.com/nenlightrestaurant

T.U.N.G. Dining Ha Noi
tungdining.com

Yakitori Hachibei Saigon
hachibei.com

Vietnam’s 10 Best Bars

Hudson Rooms Hanoi
capellahotels.com

Hybrid Nha Trang Khanh Hoa
instagram.com/hybrid_nhatrang

Legato Saigon
fb.com/barlegato

Madame Kew Saigon
instagram.com/madam.kew

Mua Craft Sake Saigon
muasake.vn

Stir Saigon
instagram.com/stir.saigon

Thơm Cocktail Bar Quy Nhon
instagram.com/thomcocktailbar.qn

Trieu Institute Saigon
instagram.com/thetrieuinstitute.com

Unemomoto Saigon
instagram.com/umenomoto.saigon

Yugen Saigon
instagram.com/yugen.bar

Of course these lists are not thorough or definitive—there are countless places worthy of your awed first-bites and appreciative slurps. But these 25 restaurants and 10 bars in each of eight destinations exemplify the revelatory dining and drinking experience that is Southeast Asia today, why everyone comes here to eat. Make your bookings first (or check when the stall is open), then plan everything else around that.

Lede and hero image by Getty Images/Craig Hastings.