Poblacion, Manila: Rebirth of Cool

I FIRST BECAME part of this neighborhood when I opened my restaurant in 2013. And although that venture ended, I fell so in love with Poblacion and its West Village vibe that I bought a home here, too. In its heyday—and mine—this unique barangay (district) in Makati saw a gentrification that moved beyond the girly bars and midget boxing of the red-light precinct into the more trendy space of speakeasies and hipster clubs. It was the place to be: a vibrant destination with edge and personality wedged into the homogenous Metro
Manila landscape of super malls and chain restaurants. 

The pandemic saw this gritty drinking neighborhood shutter its doors, leaving a ghost town in its wake. Venturing for a walk outside my home stirred anxiety: many sadly disenfranchised people had sought shelter in abandoned buildings, the crime rate went up, and nary a business was open. Very few establishments survived, and the ones that did were those able to capture the takeout food market. The future of my beloved quarter looked bleak. 

But when the world started to reawaken, so did this town. A newly leveled playing field allowed a fresh wave of businesses to invest in Poblacion’s renaissance. 

“Poblacion is an adventure,” declares Jeffrey Oh, co-founder of Notorious Concepts, the company behind Japonesa and Peruana. “It’s like a visual representation of how I feel about the Philippines, a place where anything is possible.” Back in 2019, this likely meant that you weren’t exactly sure how your night was going to unfold, thanks to a deadly combination of draft craft beer, aged tequila shots, and hair-raising concoctions. One bar would lead you to the next until dawn broke. Today, “anything is possible takes on a whole new meaning. 

Notorious Concepts—one of the many who had struggled to find a retail space pre-covid— decided to invest in real estate during Poblacion’s darkest pandemic days. “If we took a gamble and lost because the world ended, it was a gamble I was willing to take,” laughs James Thomas, co-founder and CEO. “It has the most vibrant concepts you will find in the Philippines. You come here and discover a lot—nothing you would find in a mall. That’s the charm of Poblacion.” 

The biggest shift in the neighborhood is the presence of more sophisticated dining options. The food scene has evolved from bar chow and late-night pub grub to global cuisine, wine-forward menus, and fine-dining tasting experiences. Caviar was once unimaginable in Poblacion; today, it’s a mainstay of chef Aaron Isip’s Balai Palma. 

“Most of the spaces are able to incubate their brands here,” shares Jenny Yrasuegui, founder of Square One Hospitality Concepts, the business behind La Vie en Rose, Lunes Everyday Dining, and Kosumosu. “The clientele is more willing to try new things.” It’s precisely this openness and curiosity that appeals to restaurateurs. As Oh explains, “Poblacion gives you the safe space as an operator to go a little crazier.” 

And unlike other areas in Manila where competition is cutthroat, here the industry is more collaborative and supportive. As Paolo Flores of Good Sh*t Coffee puts simply: “We are each other’s customers!” There’s no better stamp of approval than from your peers. 

Many of the places are run by small businesses, some purposefully operate with the intention to be a hangout place for friends and family. This is the story of Flores’s café: “Most of the time, guests can interact with the owners and chefs. It has a very good community vibe which adds character to the whole experience.” 

Poblacion is also one of Manila’s few walking districts that hasn’t been artificially contrived by a developer, making it a truly organic neighborhood brimming with soul. Indie barbershops, sari-sari stores, street vendors, a bustling wet market, Midcentury townhomes, and a 40-year-old salon named Be Beautiful For Him (“Him” being God, natch) cozily cohabitate with sleek low-rise condos, design studios, quirky boutique hotels, snazzy cocktail bars and creative eateries. To say the district is mixed-used is an understatement. 

“We have to be respectful of the residents, work closely with the local government, and really foster that sense of community,” Yrasuegui says. Kaela Ruiz, co-founder of Good Sh*t Coffee relishes working in Poblacion because of the people. “It’s a much more artsy crowd,” she says. “I love walking around and saying hi to everyone, especially my peers in the business. We all know each other. It’s a village!” 

It’s nice to see my hood back—more mature, less inebriated, yet still lots of fun. Which, I’d like to think, is kind of like me. 

The T+L Guide to the Best of Poblacion Right Now: 

La Pita

A wall of pickles and chilies welcomes guests into this proper hole-in-the-wall eatery. Serving up the metro’s creamiest and thickest hummus and scrumptiously smoky baba ghanoush, La Pita is a marvel of Mediterranean delights. Don’t miss their insanely crispy falafel that yields to a bright green center of herbaceous goodness and grilled spiced beef arayes with tahini sauce. Perfect for a quick lunch date or casual bite before weekday drinks. @lapita.mkt; 5652 Don Pedro St.; food and drinks for two Pp1,500.

Lunes Everyday Dining

Open daily from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., this bright and airy joint is the neighborhood kantina serving fresh spins on Filipino comfort classics. Pop in for a breakfast meeting and try their kaldereta style shakshouka or turmeric arroz caldo. Stay for lunch and order the Chicken Piaparan: a Mindanaoan classic revisited with sous vide crispy chicken on a toasted coconut curry, topped with fried shallots, garlic, chilies and cilantro. @lunes.everydaydining; 6060 R. Palma St.; food and drinks for two Pp1,500.

Balai Palma

Hidden behind a bamboo-clad door of a nondescript terrace house is the wabi sabi world of chef Aaron Isip. The Paris-trained, internationally awarded chef has made Balai Palma his creative playground. The seven-course tasting menu is a journey through the Philippine seas, with layered textures and playful vibrant flavors that are at once familiar and surprising. Fresh Pacific seabream with dragonfruit aguachile, ginger and pomelo is a fun take on a classic kilawin. Ube in Three Textures is an ode to the local purple yam, elevating the humble root crop with live clams and Oscietra caviar. A singular fine dining destination set in the heart of Poblacion. Don’t miss chef’s newest baby, Kasa Palma, which is set to open soon. @balaipalma; Unit B 6081 R. Palma St.; tasting menu Pp 7,500 per person, five-course shared plates menu Pp 3,500 per person.

Good Sh*t Coffee

Pop in for the Instagrammable pastel walls and cheeky signage, stay for the coffee and freshly made pastries. Born out of a need for community and connection during the pandemic, this small café is bursting with good vibes and good brews. Giant sourdough croissants and other creative treats are baked fresh daily next door to accompany their crazy cuppas. Try their Spanish Latte with condensed milk or the Cereal Milk Latte with crunchy toppings. @goodshtcoffee; 5872 Enriquez St.; coffee and croissants for two Pp480.

Japonesa

This Japanese-Peruvian restaurant is a great after-work spot where guests can indulge in tasty Nikkei-style dishes and stylish cocktails. Geometric patterns, sassy llama portraits, groovy lighting and cool beats make for the perfect setting to end the day on a joyful note. Start with some of their sake-based drinks paired with tasty tiraditos and sushi rolls followed by some of their heavier bites like a tender grilled pulpo or the Lomo Salteado―a sauteed beef tenderloin in a smoky, savory sauce. @japonesapoblacion; 5658 Don Pedro St.; dinner and drinks for two Pp2,500.

Peruana

Japonesa’s sister establishment is a dining destination all on its own. The kitschy, hand-painted interiors set the tone, as Peruana Cocina Latina puts the fiesta on la mesa with the bold and zesty flavors of their Peru-forward menu. With everything made to share, you’ll be fighting over the beef cheek tequeños with an irresistible cheese pull, and the last piece of their Peruvian-style roast chicken that’s been brined for 24 hours, generously rubbed in spices and charred to perfection. Indulge your inner child and order the Drunken Llama, a mezcal and Aperol concoction served with a helium balloon just, quite literally, for laughs. @peruana_cocinalatina; 5658 Don Pedro St.; dinner and drinks for two Pp2,500.

Bibio

Even if you’re one of those folks who tends to scrunch their noses at natural wines, the owners of this cute vinotheque are positive they can proffer something to your liking. The worldwide selection includes lovely pet nats from Australia, orange wines from Japan, and organic Chablis; each label is carefully chosen from sustainable and organic producers. Soak up the vino with a house-cured pastrami sandwich or steak frites if you’re feeling extra peckish. @bibio.mnl; 5659 Don Pedro St.; dinner and a bottle of wine for two Pp3,500.

La Vie en Rose

Walking through the gates and up the stairs of a low-rise residential building seems like a strange way to reach one of Manila’s most happening bars. Check twice because you might accidentally ring the neighbor! This jewel box of curiosities and cocktails is properly someone’s apartment unit. Delightfully weird, the private speakeasy is filled with one of the partners’ incredible collection of taxidermy, tribal statues, and ornate antiques making it feel like the set of a Sherlock Holmes film directed by Wes Anderson. Whether you’re there to buy a bottle to enjoy with friends or explore their well- crafted beverages, be sure to book because they get packed! Everyone wants a photo with their famous polar bear. @lavieenrose_mnl; address given upon booking; 63-9/5645-76850; drinks for two Pp700.

Bar 55

Inspired by the gritty-chic energy of Bangkok’s Thonglor neighborhood and fueled by the need to have a place to hang in Manila that felt more her own speed, owner Milka Romero converted a small urban townhouse into a sophisticated cocktail bar. Lofty ceilings and dark, moody interiors punctuated by glittering chandeliers create the perfect stage for the lush libations. Think daintily, hand painted, frothy rum sours; tom yum margaritas; or a refreshing beer-based beverage topped with a sneaky passion fruit-filled, white-chocolate ping pong ball. Oh, what a sly nod to both beer pong and Bangkok’s infamous red-light districts. @bar55.ph; 5903 Matilde St.; drinks for two Pp1,110.

Photographed by Scott A. Woodward, unless otherwise noted.

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